Cyclist Chaos on Mallorca’s Mountain Roads and More Cruise Ships Year-Round: What Visitors Need to Know

There’s something bittersweet about watching Mallorca change, mind you. I’ve walked these roads with Cala—my scruffy, ever-loyal companion—long before the cycling packs descended on the Serra de Tramuntana, and I can tell you firsthand: the island’s narrow, winding mountain passes were never built for the volume of traffic they now carry. So when the island’s coach drivers’ union raised the alarm about hordes de ciclistes temeraris—that’s “reckless cyclist hordes” in Mallorquín—blocking buses, speeding down the middle of the road, and causing daily collisions, it struck a chord. The famous Sa Calobra climb, that glorious serpentine road that twists down to one of the most dramatic coves on the island, has become a particular flashpoint. Coach drivers ferrying tourists from the Port of Palma to excursions in the mountains say they’re being forced to crawl behind groups of cyclists who ride three or four abreast, refusing to yield on roads barely wide enough for a single vehicle.

For cruise passengers booking coach excursions into the Tramuntana, this is a proper concern. Delays are real, and the tension on those mountain roads is palpable during peak cycling season—roughly March through October. If you’re planning a shore excursion that heads into the mountains, especially along the Sa Calobra route or the road to Cala Tuent, factor in extra time. Better yet, consider alternative ways to experience the Tramuntana: the vintage wooden train from Palma to Port de Sóller is a proper delight, completely untouched by the cycling chaos, and Cala adores the sea breeze at the other end. There are also boat tours that approach the dramatic coastline from the water—no road rage involved.

On a more welcoming note for cruise visitors, Holland America Line has announced year-round European cruising, expanding beyond the traditional summer season into winter voyages that include the Mediterranean. This means more ships calling at Palma during the quieter months—when the cycling crowds thin out, the air is crisp, and the island reveals its more authentic rhythm. Winter in Mallorca is something special, mind you. The mercats (local markets) are full of caul—that’s the Mallorquín word for cabbage, a staple of winter stews—and the Cathedral of Santa Maria catches a low golden light that summer visitors never see. If Holland America’s winter itineraries bring you here, you’ll find a different island: calmer roads, emptier trails (Cala and I practically have Galatzó to ourselves in January), and a warmth from locals that’s easier to feel when we’re not overwhelmed by millions of summer guests.

For those arriving on a cruise with limited time, a well-organised shore excursion is still one of the best ways to see the island’s highlights without the stress of navigating those mountain roads yourself. The Palma de Mallorca and Valldemossa Excursion from the Cruise Port takes you through Palma’s historic core and up to the poetic village of Valldemossa—avoiding the worst of the cycling corridors while still giving you a taste of the Tramuntana foothills. Check our getting around guide for more transport tips, and whatever you do, drive—or cycle—with care on these ancient roads.